Update: AMSOIL now offers dedicated fluid for Harley Davidson primary chain-cases and transmissions. What is the best combination for my bike?”Īnswer: For any Harley Twin-Cam engine, we highly recommend using AMSOIL Synthetic 20W-50 in “all three holes” (as they put it) for two essential reasons. Some even use ATF in chaincase and claim they have great results. Some use gear lube in the transmission and chaincase. There are a lot of different combinations put out there on the internet. Obviously the engine will take your synthetic 20W-50, but I’m curious about what to use in the primary and transmission. Auto Cleaning Products, Degreaser and Carb CleanerĪ reader asks: “I’m looking to switch my Harley-Davidson Street Glide Special over to AMSOIL.Shock Therapy Suspension Fluid #5 Light (STL), #10 Medium (STM).Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Power Steering Fluid (PSF).
I'll try and help all I can with info, but again, a you really need a manual. This is probably the case with the new style pulley and locking plate.
#HARLEY TRANSMISSION PULLEY MANUAL#
The manual for my 96 has a different torquing procedure that involves both torque and addition degrees of turn for that nut on installation.
But I can not be sure the torque or the torquing procedure is the same. I'm working from the FLHR manual from the year. If you don't have a manual, please get one. But, if the sprocket splines are totally stripped, you'll have to find a way to keep the transmission gears from rotating. If all that happens, when you try to remove the nut in the correct direction, is the rear wheel spins, you can try and have some press the rear brake pedal. If you have used an air gun on the nut and did try to remove it like a normally threaded nut, you may have stripped the nut and/or the threads on the shaft. WARNING!! THIS NUT HAS A LEFT HANDED THREAD!! Remove the locking plate screw and locking plate. Remove the outer primary, clutch, clutch basket, comp sprocket and primary drive chain. The plate may have come loose, the nut backed off, and the splines in the sprocket get stripped. It locks the sprocket nut in place so it does not loosen. The new pulley has 2 places for the screws that go thru the locking plate. The replacement pulley and locking plate are engineered to solve this problem. And since the pulley spines were not cut very deep, they would strip out. would come loose, letting the sprocket nut back off, and the sprocket get loose. Some times the locking plate screw, there was only one. are more than welcome!Ĭlick to expand.What you mentioned is a problem with that model year. I might not be able to explain everything perfectly, due to my lack of technical english (that's the disadvantage of being Dutch), but any indications, hints etc. How can I remove the metal plate and the front pulley (I tried an air-gun), is it left or right turning? (I believe I should turn it counterclockwise to remove it). If not, what else can be the reason for this (maybe inside the transmission? The nut on the pulley 'glides over' this metal plate - can this be the reason that things broke down? Can this metal plate be the reason that my pulley doesn't rotate when I turn the ingoing axle of my transmission (in any given gear). What is the function of this metal plate? How is the pulley attached to the outgoing shaft of the transmission? Wow - a long story, in short, my questions are: Currently nothing since I removed the allen screws and the nut glides over it anyway -> this might be the cause of the problem? to allen-screws, I don't understand what is does. I am trying to remove the front pulley-nut (with a 50mm socket - we do not have that much inch sockets in the Netherlands) but, apparently due to the fact that something is broken, something inside is also rotating and the nut won't come loose.
I guess this is a spline, but I am not sure. I suspect the connection between the front pulley and the outgoing shaft from the transmission is broken. I opened the transmission cover, everything looks well inside (but I am not an expert.) clutch, housing to find out that when I turn the 'ingoing' shaft in my transmission, the front pulley / belt / rearwheel do not turn, and the rattling noise is there again. When I rode away from home the other day, I suddenly lost traction and a very disturbing rattling noise came from my engine / transmission. I have the following problem with my FXR Superglide 1340cc from 1994:
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